Puerto Escondido Adventure Guide #1: West to Puerto Suelo
A monthly guide to give you fresh ideas for adventures just outside of PXM
Preface: I’ve lived in Puerto Escondido for over three years, and at this point have been to most of the small towns, beaches, and points of interest in the area. I used to help lead trips for the Hikers of Puerto group, led by my friend David (you can find them on Facebook), which certainly helped to that end.
Every month I’ll be sharing a weekend adventure idea here on my newsletter, in hopes that it inspires you and your loved ones to pack the car, jump on the moto, or flag down a collectivo with the goal of making new memories. Listo por una aventura amigos!?
West to Puerto Suelo
Puerto Suelo has been one of my favorite hidden beaches for a few years. I recently returned with my new partner Michelle, her 6-year-old son Matias, and my little black dog Rue. We had an amazing afternoon surrounded by nature and secluded from the January crowds.
Puerto Suelo is a small farming community. Not many people live there full-time (Google doesn’t even have population info). Some of the folks who call Puerto Suelo home—like my mate Julio who’s taking us across the river in the photo above—rely on the minimal tourism that the beach draws. Julio and his family run a little beach bar where they sell cold cocos, cervezas, and a few simple food items. This time upon arriving he let us know immediately that there was no food (besides the meat of the cocos).
Every time I’ve been to Puerto Suelo, it’s felt like we had the entire beach to ourselves. This last time with Michelle, Mati, and Rue, we saw folks leaving on horses when we first arrived, and for the next two hours, it was just us, Julio, his wife, and his son. Also, January is meant to be the heart of the “high season” for tourism on the Oaxacan coast, so basically—Puerto Suelo is still very much an undiscovered playa magico! Go check it out for an afternoon if you want a gorgeous beach to yourselves.
How to get to Puerto Suelo:
Load the car or hop on the moto, and make your way West about 30 minutes past the airport. You’ll pass Bajos de Chile and the entirety of Laguna de Manialtepec before reaching the turn for Puerto Suelo. There’s a small green government sign before the turn, but it’s very easy to miss!
Once you turn onto the dirt road, it’s about an 8-minute drive to the little river that cuts the beach off from the access road. At this point, you’ll need to flag someone down to paddle you over. It’s around 50 pesos per crossing (it used to be 10 pesos per person, but on this most recent visit we paid 100 total for our group to be brought both ways).
The boat ride only covers about 30 meters, but loading up the team onto an old canoe is definitely a part of the Puerto Suelo adventure. Getting to the secluded beach via water passage makes for a great start to a Saturday afternoon.
The little stretch of river you’ll cross is the main connection between the open ocean and Laguna Manialtepec. It’s a gorgeous and very alive bit of nature. There are birds everywhere, and even the occasional crocodile, so be very careful if you bring the dog(s)!
What to do:
After arriving on the beach, you’ll find cold cocos, cold cervezas, and an empty beach for as far as the eye can see. When arriving on the other side of the water passage, I recommend going to the left, to the last little shelter (enramada) in Puerto Suelo. This is the one that Julio’s family runs. They’re lovely hosts, and it’s the one little beach bar that’s most consistently open.
On all five of my visits to Puerto Suelo, I’ve posted up under their shade and enjoyed a cold beer or coconut. Sometimes they’re able to do food as well, but don’t count on it. If you plan on spending the majority of your day at the beach, pack a lunch!
You can swim and play in the ocean. You can also jump into the river. For families with younger kids, the river might be the safer and more calm option. Do be aware—there are occasional crocodiles—so especially if you have smaller dogs, keep them on a leash near the river.
I always ask Julio or any locals around, if there have been any sightings lately as well, to help calm whatever croc-nerves there might be in the group.
Other fun stops to make:
When you drive west past the airport, there are a few other fun and interesting stops you can include in the day. My favorite of the many stops you can make to add to the adventure, are the several big viveros (plant shops) out near Bajos de Chila. My favorite is called Viveros El Tequio and it’s located right at the first entrance to Chila.
It goes on in every direction further than you can see, and it’s lined with every amazing plant, palm, and flower that grows in Oaxaca. It’s a paradise for folks who love gardening or nature. You’ll almost certainly leave with a new plant baby. There are several others on that stretch of carretera that are amazing as well, so if you’re outfitting a property with a bunch of plants, check the prices at several!
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