Preface: I’ve lived in Puerto Escondido for over five years, and at this point have been to most of the small towns, beaches, and points of interest in the area. I used to help lead trips for the Hikers of Puerto group, led by my friend David (you can find them on Facebook), which certainly helped to that end.

I hope these weekend adventure ideas in my newsletter inspire you and your loved ones to pack the car, book a bus, jump on the moto, or flag down a colectivo with the goal of making new memories. Listo por una aventura amigos!?

North to Puebla and Cholula

Puebla—just a few hours southeast of Mexico City, and about 10 hours north of Puerto Escondido—is one of Mexico’s biggest and most interesting cities, full of culture and history. Home to over 1.8 million residents, or Poblanos, it’s the fourth largest city in Mexico. Can you name the three larger? CDMX, Guadalajara y Monterrey.

It’s known for its culinary history, colonial architecture, pottery, and ornate tiles on many of the buildings in the historic center. There are tons of museums, even more churches, and, of course, incredible food. I only had two days there, but here are my top reccos for an adventure north to both Puebla City and the pueblo mágico of Cholula.

At the bottom, under the Insider Info section, you’ll find even more recommendations from my dear friend, who is a Poblano.

How to Get There:

Take two buses to break up the journey. On the way to Puebla, I broke up the two comfortable rides on an ADO with a night at a hostel in Oaxaca City. See photos of my wandering above.

On the way back, I took the collectivo-style buses and spent just an hour in Oaxaca City, walking around and eating some of the best pastor tacos I’ve ever had in my life (Los Tacos de Esme… see tacos above), before jumping on the next small bus. I made it all the way from Puebla to the coast in 11 hours total, spending just 700 pesos.

If you like Pastor, check out my favorite spots for pastor in Puerto!

You have two options for booking your bus(es):

1. You can book a big bus, like an ADO, that will connect you to the main stations in each of the 3 cities. I recommend using the Busbud app for buying these types of tickets. These two rides cost me around $90 USD total (or around 1,500 pesos).

2. You can use the local, smaller bus services, sometimes referred to as collectivos. The one from Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido is called Villa del Pacifico. They have an office and a small station in both PXM and Oaxaca City, where you can get your tickets. The buses run almost every hour, and each trip costs only 350 pesos.

   The bus service from Puebla to Oaxaca City is called Capilla Abierta, and you can find more info on their card below, but they offer 6 daily routes for just 350 pesos. You can find their office in Puebla near the main bus station, and the Oaxaca City office is located on the western side of Centro.

   

What to Do in Puebla

Wander the Historic Center

I spent about 5 hours with a friend wandering through Puebla’s colorful streets and historic downtown. You can’t really get this part wrong, but there are a few stops you can make to ensure it’s amazing.

1. Have a shot at La Pasita. Pasita is a liquor made from raisins, and it’s served with a cube of cheese. The flavor combination is a Puebla legend. My friend from Puebla told me Poblanos say, “If you didn’t drink a Pasita, you didn’t actually visit Puebla.”

   

2. Have a beer, mezcal, or pulque at El Idolo. It’s a proper cantina, with immaculate vibes and great drinks. Be sure to ask if you can have a ribbon to leave a wish or dream on their wish wall. It’s also right in the middle of a great neighborhood with tons of antique shops, street vendors, and parks.

   Note: If you’re unfamiliar, Pulque is a traditional Mexican alcoholic beverage made from the fermented sap (aguamiel) of the maguey (agave) plant, with roots tracing back to pre-Hispanic times. It’s a 2000-year-old boozy tradition.

3. Walk to the zocalo and visit the oldest library in the Americas. As you probably know, basically every city and town in Mexico has a Zocalo, or town square. They’re almost always magical places, and the one in Puebla is no exception. Puebla’s zocalo is buzzing with people, vendors, and kids shooting pencil-like balloons into the sky.

   It’s a vibe at any hour, but especially beautiful around sunset, as the cathedral lights up. The library is on the same block, but was sadly closed when we arrived, que tristeza. I was really excited to see it, because I love books, and it was founded in 1646. It’s recognized by UNESCO for being the first and oldest public library in the ENTIRE Americas.

Go to a few churches and the main Cathedral

I’m not a big church guy, and in my many years of traveling, I’ve been to hundreds, so it’s not something I’m normally seeking out in my travels. Sure, if I pass a big beautiful church, I’ll pop my hat off and pop myself inside. However, Puebla is famous for its churches, and there are a few you should try to see. Cholula, as well, which you’ll find more info about below.

1. Visit the Ex-Convent of San Francisco of Puebla. This church is also a former convent. You’ll easily find the nave, or main hall of the church, after entering through the front doors. However, be sure to find the small arrows and signs that will lead you to the room where the actual body of San Francisco is preserved. That’s really him in that box.

2. When you’re at the Zócalo, go admire the ornate detail of Puebla’s cathedral. I was using the terms “cathedral” and “church” in Spanish interchangeably with my friend, and at one point she corrected me, saying, “There is only one Cathedral in Puebla, this one… ” It’s a massive Cathedral, and is one of the most important buildings in the historic center of Puebla. It’s protected as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Go to a few museums

Note: There are maybe a dozen other museums in Puebla that you can easily look up, and I’d encourage you to hit up any that spark your interest. These are just some of the most recommended of the bunch.

1. Museo Internacional del Barroco is a world-famous art museum. I didn’t make it on this trip, but it’s apparently so amazing I had a friend say, “That’s like going to India and skipping the Taj Mahal.” What can I say, I just had a day!

2. Museo Regional De La Revolución Mexicana, Casa De Los Hermanos Serdán, is an important slice of Mexican history, and a museum I was grateful to wander for an hour. The outside of the building is full of bullet holes, and the inside is full of exhibits depicting life at the start of the 20th century, where the Serdán family lived—a family of heroes.

   It’s the site of the start of the revolution to overthrow the dictator Porfirio Diaz in 1910. Be sure to clock the most famous mirror in Mexico, full of bullet holes, which is the most prized artifact in the building.

   Sweet bonus: This museum is on the “calle de dulces,” basically the candy store street. Stop into one that catches your eye, and ask what you should try!

   3. Museo Amparo is home to over 3,500 pieces of pre-Columbian, 19th-century viceroyal, and contemporary art. It’s labeled as an art museum, but it’s full of history as well. They offer guided tours, and there is an amazing view from the rooftop terrace. Unfortunately, I know this from researching, not from visiting. I only had 1 day!

Eat the local delicacies

1. Tacos Arabes are probably the most iconic Puebla dish. It’s similar to pastor in that it is cut off of a trompo, or giant vertical rotating meat stick (see above). The primary difference is that tacos árabes use a Middle Eastern-style, mild, herb-heavy spice blend (cumin and oregano) served on pita-like bread (pan árabe). Conversely, tacos al pastor are marinated in red chiles, achiote, and pineapple, served on corn tortillas. Just Google “tacos arabes” and go to any place with decent reviews. It’s like eating pastor in Mexico City… hard to go wrong.

2. Cemita Sandwich is a treat, and something I hadn’t heard of before visiting Puebla. My friend Yesmina, whose recommendations you’ll find below (including her top Cemita Sandwich spot), sent me a message while I was there saying, “You have to eat a Cemila!” It’s a milanesa (the original is Milanesa de cerdo, but most places of milanesa de pollo, tambien), with a lot of Oaxacan cheese, sliced avocado, peppers, and a very fresh, flavorful herb called pápalo leaves. The combo, served on the important sesame seed roll, is a banger, and that's why the sandwich is legendary.

3. Mole Poblano, which I got to try a homemade version of, is incredible. It’s an iconic, complex Mexican sauce that originates from Puebla, and is characterized by its dark brown color and savory-sweet flavor. It blends over 20 ingredients—including ancho, mulato, and pasilla chiles, nuts, spices, and chocolate. It’s topped with sesame, which, as you can see, is a very important ingredient in Poblano dishes.

How to get to Cholula:

Cholula is basically its own small town, or pueblo mágico, just to the west of Puebla. You can get to Cholula in a number of ways—in a collectivo, bus, or taxi—but the easiest is definitely by just ordering an Uber.

Uber works very well in Puebla, just like it does in Mexico City, and it always feels like a taste of luxury and convenience for this PXM-based beach bum. I just touch buttons on my phone, and a driver appears? Magic!

What to do in Cholula:

Visit the world’s largest Pyramid, and hike up to the Church that the Spanish put on top of it

Apparently, depending on how you measure, Cholula is home to the largest pyramid on earth—the Great Pyramid of Cholula, or Tlachihualtepetl. It’s not as tall as the pyramids of Egypt, but if you measure by mass, it’s the largest. However, the majority of it is covered, as the Spanish built a church on top of it

Go take a tour (210 pesos for non-Mexicans, which gives you Museum access as well), where you can walk in a large circle around the majority of the base of the pyramid, while reading information on placards around the park. At the end, you can climb the steep steps of the most exposed section of the pyramid, where you’ll get a great view of Cholula.

After you’ve enjoyed the pyramid, find the steep path up to the church at the top of the hill. This is the most famous church in Cholula, which is home to many. The church, called Our Lady of Remedy, was built by Spanish colonists in the 1590s. On the weekends, you can expect a line to enter, but it’s worth the wait to make a lap through the interior, which is covered in beautiful gold detail and artwork.

Visit the Regional Museum of Cholula

The 210 peso pyramid ticket also gives you access to this Museum, so go check it out! There were a few interesting exhibits, but the geology nerd in me liked the one about the two volcanoes near Puebla and related folklore the most. On the top floor, there’s a lot of interesting information about the various indigenous populations—their gods, customs, art, and history—that inhabited Mexico before Spanish colonization.

Go church-hopping

They say Cholula has 365 churches, one for every day of the year, but that’s a legend based on Hernán Cortés ordering 365 churches to be built after the Cholula Massacre. It actually has 37, or up to 159 if you count all the smaller chapels. Just walk around, and you’ll bump into some interesting churches. The biggest is bright yellow, and right across from the zocalo of Cholula. (See above)

Eat, drink, and be merry

I spent an entire Sunday in Cholula, and the town was absolutely buzzing. I imagine it’s not as packed and pulsating with people and energy during the week, but if you go on a weekend, you’ll be in a sea of happy folks enjoying this beautiful small town. There are hundreds of street vendors selling every type of snack and treat you can imagine. I tried Tepache for the first time, a fermented drink made from pineapples, which gave me a little afternoon buzz.

I got a message in the evening from a buddy I know from Puerto, and he said he had a set at Radio 28, so of course we went! It’s a very cool bar and music venue made out of shipping containers, and as I watched my buddy, fireworks went off in the distance, right next to the church on top of the pyramid. It was one of those magic, serendipitous moments that can only happen when you go on an adventure and follow the wind. (Find a picture, that does not do this moment justice, above)

Other fun stops to make:

Oaxaca City

Oaxaca City is on the way, and if you can break up the bus ride by spending a night there, it’ll make the trip that much better.

I absolutely love Oaxaca City, and I’m so grateful that I’ve lost track of my number of visits to that magical, historical city. I think it’s around 9 or 10 trips now. Check out all of my favorite restaurants and reccos in this Oaxaca City Adventure Guide.

San Jose Del Pacifico

If you’re trying to make a whole week out of it, you can spend a night in San Jose del Pacifico as well, which is just south of Oaxaca City. You can find more info about this magical (mushroom) mountain town here!

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Insider Info: The top recommendations from my dear friend, Yesmina, who is from Puebla.

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Guide #1: West to Puerto Suelo

Puerto Suelo is a palm-shaded secluded beach near a picturesque lagoon, close enough for a coconut-drinking frisbee-throwing day trip.

Guide #2: Southeast to El Puertecito and Tierra Blanca

Two small charming fishing villages full of tide pools, massive rock-lined beaches, surf breaks, seafood, and goats wandering the streets.

Guide #3: West by Land and Lagoon to Chacahua

A slice of National Geographic squeezed between a bioluminescent-rich lagoon and the best surf wave in North America, where everyone eats breakfast at the same place and all the community announcements are made through a megaphone at the town square.

Guide #4: North on the New Highway to Oaxaca City

The ancient capital of the state; bursting with markets, flavors, street art, parks, bakeries, culture, flowers, cathedrals, boutiques, and everything that we humans love most.

Guide #5: East to Mazunte and Zipolite

Mazunte is the friendly vegan hippy cousin of Puerto Escondido, and Zipolite is the weird nudest lesbian aunt. Both are great at yoga and weddings. Both are also great to visit for a quick overnight trip.

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Preface: I’ve lived in Puerto Escondido for over four years, and at this point have been to most of the small towns, beaches, and points of interest in the area. I used to help lead trips for the Hikers of Puerto group, led by my friend David (you can find them on Facebook), which certainly helped to that end.

Every month I’ll be sharing a weekend adventure idea here on my newsletter, in hopes that it inspires you and your loved ones to pack the car, jump on the moto, or flag down a colectivo with the goal of making new memories. Listo por una aventura amigos!?

East to Huatulco

Huatulco was the original coastal destination for tourists in Oaxaca. Or at least, it’s where the government wanted visitors to go. This is fairly obvious for a few reasons—they have an international airport, they have the biggest marina in Oaxaca, there’s a fancy golf course, a Starbucks, and several all-inclusive resorts.

It was set up for visitors from the start. People are more drawn to the charms of Puerto Escondido these days, but Huatulco is still worth checking out for a quick weekend trip, or for a night on your way toward San Cristobal.

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How to get there:

The names of places in this part of the coast can be a bit confusing, so let’s clear that up before we go on.

On Google Maps what everyone calls “Huatulco” is labeled as “La Crucecita.” There is another town called “Santa Maria Huatulco” inland about a 30-minute drive away. (See map above).

Now that we’ve sort of cleared that up (I’m still a bit confused, to be honest), let’s talk about the journey to the Huatulco we’re talking about—the one with great restaurants and a big Marina right on the ocean.

The easiest way to get there is on the bus. You can book an ADO, OCC, or Alta Mar bus on any given day. The tickets range from $12-$20 depending on the time and service you select, so it’s pretty simple and cheap to make the trip.

When booking a bus, two options show up:

1. Santa Maria Huatulco (not the one you want)

2. Bahiá Huatulco (Bahiá means bay, so this is the one you want)

Note: I use Busbud for all my bus booking needs in Mexico. The app and website both work great and provide you all of the options for any route you might be interested in taking.

The bus takes about 2.5-3 hours depending on how many stops they’ll make along the way.

The other way you might want to get there is by renting a car. If you have a group of 3 or 4 wanting to make the trip, renting a car for 2 or 3 days might even be cheaper than taking the bus there and back. Los Tres Reyes right on the carretera above Zicatela comes highly recommended by several friends.

If you do rent a car for the adventure, the drive will only take you about two hours, and you can stop at any beach, restaurant, or roadside vendor that catches your eye along the way.

What to Do:

Huatulco is a charming little town that can be explored in just a few days. Most of the action and interesting streets are clustered around the Zocalo (town square). At night, go sit up on the terrace at Cafe Cosa Mayor with a cold drink and watch the action unfold below in the heart of the town.

Hualtco has two major areas to explore, the downtown and the area around the Marina. I always stay at Hostel Azul y Blanco, which is perfectly located between these two different parts of town. It’s only a block from the Corredor Touristico, a nicely manicured walking path that connects the center of town to the water. Explore these two main areas and you’ve seen the best of what Huatulco has to offer.

Hit the market

Mercado 3 de Mayo, about a block from the Zocalo, is a huge covered market selling anything you could possibly want for a beach weekend—mezcal, floaties, alebrijes, beach bags, towels, and floppy hats. There are some great affordable restaurants in the market as well, which is true of the most active markets throughout Mexico.

Get on a boat

You have two options to get out on the water— you can either join a tour or charter your own boat.

The marina charges a small fee even just to explore the docks, but as soon as you get near the entrance to the marina, you’ll have a dozen boat captains approaching you about going on a tour. Get a few different prices before committing to a particular excursion.

If you want to charter your own boat—say you had an event with a big group of friends—the service I’ve had a number of friends use for birthday parties and special occasions is booked through a woman named Vivian. I also have another contact that specializes in larger boats if you’re looking to throw a 50-person mini-yacht party.

Both of their WhatsApp numbers are provided below in the Insider Info section, for my small but important group of paid subscribers. Thanks, yall!

Go Golfing

Huatulco is home to one of the nicest golf courses anywhere in Oaxaca. The Parotas Golf Club is a well-maintained top-rate golf course complete with all the amenities—golf carts and clubs to rent, drink carts out on the course, and an onsite restaurant and pro shop. However, it’s temporarily closed. Hopefully, the course will re-open soon.

Google these options below and you’re sure to find a nice cafe to work from, great Italian food, mariscos, authentic sushi, or whatever it is you might be after!

Cafes to check out

Cafe Paraiso, Cafe Porto, Piyo Café, Casa del Cafe, and Nico’s Organic Coffee.

Recommended Restaurants

Alfredos, Terra Cotta, Raices Cocina de Autor, Marea, Alebrijes Bar and Grill, Bahiá Riscalillo, Los Parados Taqueria y Tlayudos, Sushi House, and Lartilleria.

Other fun stops to make:

Mazunte and Ziplite are on the way, which you can learn more about in Adventure Guide #5.

Mazunte is about halfway between Puerto Escondido and Huatulco, so if you’re exploring the coast for a few nights or more and want to see as much as possible, planning stops at both places along the way makes a lot of sense.

Puerto Angel

Puerto Angel is a small beach town about 10 minutes past Ziploite on the curvy coastal road that runs from Mazunte to Puerto Angel. The town was built up along a steep rocky outcrop that rises from a beautiful bay—Bahiá Puerto Angel.

There are several great views (Faro de Puerto Angel), beaches (Playa Estacahuite and Playa Panteón), and restaurants to enjoy if you stop in for the day or an overnight stay. It’s a small town of about 2,500 people, but full of the same endless charm and stunning sunsets you’ll find all along the coast of Oaxaca.

Note: If you’re curious about stopping at Puerto Angel, and you already know Mazunte and Ziploite, you don’t need to drive through them to get there. You’ll actually save about 30 minutes by staying on the highway until the Pochutla intersection.

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Insider Info: The recommended boat services that I have a contact for in Huatulco

My good mate, Mario, used to organize boat parties through Viviana. It’s an early wake-up call to have a boat day in Huatulco, but you can get in a sprinter van at 8 am, load onto a party boat by 11 am, have a day party on a mini-yacht, and make it back to Puerto before by evening. With enough people, the price isn’t too crazy.

It’s not a bad plan for a birthday party or any reason you might have to celebrate!

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Preface: I’ve lived in Puerto Escondido for almost four years, and at this point have been to most of the small towns, beaches, and points of interest in the area. I used to help lead trips for the Hikers of Puerto group, led by my friend David (you can find them on Facebook), which certainly helped to that end.

Every month I’ll be sharing a weekend adventure idea here on my newsletter, in hopes that it inspires you and your loved ones to pack the car, jump on the moto, or flag down a colectivo with the goal of making new memories. Listo por una aventura amigos!?

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North to San José del Pacifico

San José del Pacifico has been on the more adventurous backpacker’s trail of Oaxaca for nearly 70 years. In large part, because of a Life Magazine article from 1957 about magic mushrooms.

According to Wikipedia, "Seeking the Magic Mushroom" is a 1957 photo essay by amateur mycologist Robert Gordon Wasson describing his experience taking psilocybin mushrooms in 1955 during a Mazatec ritual in Oaxaca, Mexico. Wasson was one of the first Westerners to participate in a Mazatec ceremony and to describe the psychoactive effects of the Psilocybe species.

This article generated global interest in the healing powers of the mushroom and had the side effect of drastically increasing interest in the small mountain towns of rural Oaxaca.

Ever since, travelers have been passing through the pine forests south of Oaxaca City to find out for themselves. Although the interest has been alive for over half a century, the town has remained grounded.

There are no chain restaurants or shopping malls. It’s still very much a small mountain town, where the majority of the hand-made souvenirs just happen to be mushroom-themed. Go take in the fresh mountain air, build a fire at night, and if you’re open to it—you can easily find and try magic mushrooms.

Note: Be respectful and responsible if you do want to take part. It’s not a party culture, it’s a medicine and ceremony culture. More magic mushroom info below under “Insider Info.”

How to Get There:

The answer to this question has gotten more interesting over the past year. At the start of 2024, a new highway opened up between Oaxaca City and the coast.

If you look up directions between PXM and San José del Pacifico on Google Maps, it’ll advise you to take the new highway north to Miahuatlán de Porfirio Diaz, then backtrack 30 minutes south to San José del Pacifico. The whole trip is about 3 hours.

You’ll also see the original option, the old road that has 100 topes and 1000 turns. The benefit of this road is that you don’t have to backtrack and there are more cute little restaurants and stops along the way, but Google estimates it’ll take you 4 hours to get there. It’s the more interesting, but far more difficult option.

What to Do:

San José del Pacifico is a mountain oasis where visitors convene with nature. Consuming the local mushrooms can certainly help increase the depth of that connection with nature, but even without the aid of psychedelics, you can’t help but feel like we’re all made from the same stardust while spending a weekend in San José del Pacifico.

Pick up a leaf and admire the veins. Watch the sun paint the sky as it sets. Stare into a fire as it dances and sends sparks toward the stars.

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Go For a Nature Hike

There are trails throughout the countryside surrounding San José del Pacifico. I’ve ventured on a few trails deep into the moss-covered fir trees, and it’s always rewarding.

You can poke around on Google Maps looking for the little green “hike” icons, to see what options are near your accommodation. Also, a quick Google search brought up a list on Wikiloc of top hiking trails that might give you some other ideas!

Find Some Epic Mountain Views

There are a number of cafes with the word “mirador” right in the name. Head up to one of them for a coffee, and take in the breathtaking mountain views. There are also a number of “vistas” right on the old road, which cuts a jagged line through the mountains. Finally, you can find two of my favorite views in the area at Cabañas Rancho Viejo.

Cabañas Rancho Viejo

I don’t always include housing recommendations in these Adventure Guides. When I do, you know it’s a noteworthy place. If you want to be right in the heart of the small-town action, this spot isn’t for you. It’s a short drive north of the main strip.

But, if you’re with a partner or seeking some solitude, and want a little cabin in the woods where the staff at the place provide "two fires a day” as a part of their service—then this is your place!

There are even several incredible views inside of their property: Mirador del Arbol (near the parking lot) and my personal favorite sunset view in the area, View Point Rancho Viejo. If you can get a little cabin near that viewpoint, don’t hesitate. (See photo below)

Temazcal Ceremony

There are also a few temazcal options right near or inside Rancho Viejo. If you’re not familiar with temazcal, it’s a type of sweat lodge that you normally enter with a guide for a cleansing ceremony. Imagine cooking yourself like a pizza. It’s certainly something you should try if you never have, especially if you could benefit from a detox or sweat-soaked rebirth.

• Rancho Primavera (inside Cabañas Rancho Viejo)

• Temezcal Yo’o Be’en (Right before Cabañas Rancho Viejo)

• Temazcal Vientre de la Tierra (Right at the turn for the road of Cabañas Rancho Viejo)

Other fun stops to make:

Eat at One of my Favorite Restaurants in the World, La Taberna de Los Duendes (No, I’m not exaggerating)

I realize hyping it up to this degree will probably make it a letdown, but it’s how I genuinely feel, so try to quell your expectations and go get a meal at Taberna de los Duenos (The Elves Tavern). It’s a magical place with incredible food and a nice craft beer selection. It’s certainly not cheap, but it is incredibly generous.

They specialize in homemade pasta, and most people can’t finish an order. The food is rich, the service is spectacular, and the vibe is even better. When you order anything, you get additional things brought to you (a muffin with your cafe de olla for example), and I always feel like a prince when I sit down to eat in this magical smokey little cabin.

Note: It’s pretty popular, so if you want to go at a busy time, make sure to either call ahead, or show up early in the evening. There’s only about 10 tables, and sometimes it’s entirely full.

San Mateo Río Hondo

This small mountain town is so charming that two of my good friends in Puerto have moved there over the past two years. Ben and Anil both pulled out their Puerto roots and over in the forest of San Mateo, they found some fresh mountain soil to replant them.

I’ll do a full Adventure Guide for this charming place after I get a chance to visit my mates. However, if you don’t have much time, and want to know what other places in the area are worth checking out for a day or afternoon, San Mateo is famously charming. Stop in for a walk around the colorful village, and breathe in the fresh pine-scented air.

Find more of my thoughts and words on Medium

Read my 5-star Travel Memoir, Not That Anyone Asked

Insider Info: A few places where you can find and easily buy magic mushrooms

As mentioned above, it’s not a secret that the mushrooms are grown, sold, and ingested for medicinal and ceremonial purposes around San José del Pacifico. However, it can be somewhat uncomfortable to just ask your waiter at breakfast “Um, do you know where we can get some magic mushrooms?”

So, below are the two ways I’ve successfully bought magic mushrooms in San José del Pacifico, free of stress.

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Preface: I’ve lived in Puerto Escondido for almost four years, and at this point have been to most of the small towns, beaches, and points of interest in the area. I used to help lead trips for the Hikers of Puerto group, led by my friend David (you can find them on Facebook), which certainly helped to that end.

Every month I’ll be sharing a weekend adventure idea here on my newsletter, in hopes that it inspires you and your loved ones to pack the car, jump on the moto, or flag down a colectivo with the goal of making new memories. Listo por una aventura amigos!?

East to San Cristobal

Covering San Cristobal is stretching the limits of what these Adventure Guides were originally conceived to achieve. Most of these guides are for day or overnight trips near Puerto Escondido. You’ll probably want at least a week carved out for a journey to Chiapas, but I just love San Cris… so here I am, writing about it again.

Basically, I wanted to make a San Cristobal Adventure Guide to share with y’all some basic information about it, in case you’re curious. In case you do have a week to go check it out.

For the past three years, I’ve visited San Cristobal for a week every August. The annual pilgrimage is one of my favorite weeks of the year, and I think after reading this, you might decide to make a similar plan.

Last year I published a BIG GIANT REVIEW of San Cristobal with my top 5 activities, cafes, restaurants, and bars. There will be a bit of overlap with that older comprehensive review of my 20 favorite bites and sites in San Cris, but we’ll follow the Adventure Guide format.

Buckle up (for the overnight bus) and let’s get into it.

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How to Get There:

You could drive if you wanted to make it a road trip, but I recommend booking a direct overnight bus. It’s about 13 hours. If you get on a 9 pm bus, read for a few hours, and then sleep for as many hours as you can, you’ll wake up the next morning and eventually pull into San Cristobal around 11 am.

The ADO is fairly comfortable, and if you’re lucky enough not to sit next to a snorer or baby, it’s relatively easy to get a decent night’s sleep. The seats drop back and even have a place to charge your phone, just be sure to bring a sweatshirt or something warm to bundle up in because the AC will be blasting. I always have my tapestry and a hoodie ready for the bus (one used as a blanket, one used as a pillow).

I love being on the way somewhere, so I enjoy the night bus. Maybe that’s not you, but it is relatively comfortable and will only cost you around $75 USD (1500 pesos) to make it across half of southern Mexico to a new state.

Pro Tip: It’s also two nights of the trip (assuming you take the bus back) that you won’t have to pay for accommodation.

Note: I use Busbud for all my bus booking needs in Mexico. The app works great and gives you all of the options for any route you might be interested in taking.

What to do:

This stuff… All of this stuff.

There are 20 total recommendations in that post linked above, but I’ll quickly shout out my top 3 overall recommendations here.

1. Canyon Del Sumidero (Day trip activity)

If there’s a “can’t miss” activity on this list, it’s certainly Sumidero Canyon. It’s one of the most breathtaking natural wonders I’ve ever seen in person. I went on the full-day tour 10 years ago on my first visit, and I vividly remember being on that little boat smiling wide-eyed, squinting into the sun until my face hurt.

The canyon is gorgeous. The walls shoot straight up into the sky, while birds fly overhead. If you’re lucky, you’ll even spot a Crocodile in the water. I decided to run it back again on my visit to San Cris this past year.

Note: It only costs around $25-30 to book the day trip with most tour groups, and it’s a fun way to potentially meet a few people while effortlessly getting the canyon experience.

2. Naufragio (Live music, craft beer & pizza hot spot)

If you end up in San Cristobal, this place will likely be recommended to you whether you read this or not. It’s a pretty famous establishment, and for very good reason—it’s fuckin’ rad.

It’s got a speakeasy feeling upon arriving at the address. It’s just an innocuous light blue wall with a wooden door on a dark street a few blocks away from the action, but once you enter you’re in a whole new world. 

Naufragio is a large labyrinth space with 5 or 6 different rooms. The back room is filled with smoke from their pizza ovens, and the taproom in front is always pumping with incredible live music. 

Only open from Thursday-Saturday

3. Kukulpan (Cafe)

Kukulpan is one of those spots, that once you find it, you’ll make sure that your walking route curves past it at least once a day. Kukulpan is a bakery and coffee shop right on a prominent corner about a block from Plaza de Santo Domingo.

They have amazing baked goods, both savory and sweet options, at prices ranging from 20-50 pesos. It’s one of my favorite cafes anywhere in the world. Take your computer for a work session that will also certainly involve entertaining people-watching and delicious flavors.

Other fun stops to make:

These two places I’ll likely never make an Adventure Guide for, but they’re both worth checking out. In fact, they’re both proper cities.

Tuxtla is the capital of Chiapas, so a larger city than San Cristobal, just not as well known among travelers. I’ve now stopped in Tuxtla for a night on each of my past two trips to San Cristobal. It’s on the way!

Tuxtla

My first and biggest recommendation for Tuxtla is the hostel I’ve stayed in for the past two years. Hostal Tres Central is in an excellent location right near the main Zocalo, and it’s so nice for the price. It’s around $25 for a private room, and my guitar even had its own bed.

From that home base, go explore! My two trips to Tuxtla involved a lot of long walks taking in the sites, smells, and sounds of the city while a podcast tickled my ears and taught me something new.

Visit Parque de la Marimba and find the street with a row of esquites carts. Eat at Gorditas Don Rafita. Wander the markets. Run to Parque de Oriente. Go to the mall!!!

Really, I had a great time at their mall, Plaza Las Americas, on this most recent visit. It’s attached to the bus station so you’ll end up there either way, but go early to check out the food court and catch a movie!

Note: Part of this joy is certainly because we don’t have a proper mall in Puerto Escondido so classic malls have become novel to me at this point.

If you’re nostalgic for the 90s, it’s alive and well in the food court at the mall in Tuxtla. Go get a Big Mac and find out for yourself.

Salina Cruz

Salina Cruz is another proper city that nobody will recommend you visit… well, nobody except me! I like visiting everywhere at least once because I like knowing places. As I describe in the final section of my travel memoir, Not That Anyone Asked…

So many names and places on the map still represented mystery, which never sat well with me as a kid paging through National Geographic in our suburban basement. Now that I was so close to so much that was new to me, I had to go see more.

I stopped in Salina Cruz for a day last year on the way to San Cristobal. The route goes to the bus station in Salina Cruz, so I decided to check it out. I was curious why nobody ever mentions it.

It’s an industrial shipping port right on the coast. It definitely is a bit rough around the edges, but there’s cold beer and beauty everywhere, so I had a great day walking its streets. In Mexico, there are also esquites and elotes everywhere. I found a spot with a huge line and had a very memorable cup of corn. (See photo above)

Visit the Zocalo (something you should just do anywhere you go in Mexico) and grab a drink at Moonlight on the corner of the main square. It’s a nice rooftop bar with a great view of the action below.

It’s not the most beautiful town, but I did find it interesting, and you can even eat a Whopper at their Burger King—something we can’t easily do very easily living in Puerto Escondido.

Find more of my thoughts and words on my Medium

Read my 5-star Travel Memoir, Not That Anyone Asked

Insider info: San Cristobal’s Asian Food Scene is Incredible. Here are my favorites

Read more

Preface: I’ve lived in Puerto Escondido for almost four years, and at this point have been to most of the small towns, beaches, and points of interest in the area. I used to help lead trips for the Hikers of Puerto group, led by my friend David (you can find them on Facebook), which certainly helped to that end.

Every month I’ll be sharing a weekend adventure idea here on my newsletter, in hopes that it inspires you and your loved ones to pack the car, jump on the moto, or flag down a colectivo with the goal of making new memories. Listo por una aventura amigos!?

East to Agua Blanca

The first time I heard about Agua Blanca someone told me They have oysters bigger than your hand and 200 peso lobsters. This is exactly how I still explain it to other folks when this small beach town comes up in conversation.

I often visit a property that I’m a part of in El Puertecito, about 30 minutes east down the coast. Agua Blanca is about another five to ten minutes from there and a seafood lover’s paradise. The beach is gorgeous, and the little town seems to be made up almost entirely of beachside restaurants with rustic palapas.

I’ll share a restaurant recommendation below, but the magic of Agua Blanca is that you can’t really go wrong. Every restaurant serves oysters, lobsters, camarones de diablo y ajo, and big spicy micheladas. Pick a spot, and post up for a few hours while you look out at the sea and taste its bounty.

How to Get There:

This part is pretty easy, so I’ll keep the section short. You can take the Mazunte collectivo, and jump out at Agua Blanca, but getting back to Puerto Escondido might prove difficult. I’d recommend driving if you can, whether on a moto or in a car.

To get there, drive east along the highway. Agua Blanca is halfway to Mazunte, and just past Santa Elena. Santa Elena is a small town with a few tiendas, a bakery, several hardware stores, and a yellow pedestrian bridge that runs above the highway.

After you pass under that pedestrian bridge, the next right will take you to the beach in Agua Blanca. Take that bumpy dirt road until you run into a long line of restaurants on the beach.

What to do:

The majority of folks who make the trip to Agua Blanca are there to spend a day at a stunning beach while eating their body weight in seafood. The restaurant scene is genuinely unbelievable.

Beyond eating and drinking, the town is small enough that you can basically walk the entire length of it. You can walk the main street to the very end, and then walk the beach back, and in about 30 minutes you’ll have the lay of the land.

I would also strongly recommend bringing a good book, a frisbee, and any other beach toys you can gather up. It’s one of my favorite places in the world to pick a hammock, crack open a book, and then slowly order food and drinks over a few hours.

Note: If you’re a dog owner, it’s also the type of town that’s very fun for your dogs. There’s no real risk of them getting lost or running into traffic in the one-street town, so I love bringing my two dogs for a fun day of off-leash running, swimming, and sniffing around for dropped shrimp.

Beach Club:

I have to give credit to my good friend Jaime for sharing this info because although I was just in Agua Blanca, I had no idea that you could make the experience a bit more luxurious by stopping in at Nossa. Thank goodness for Puerto’s 1000 WhatsApp groups!

On the far east end of the main strip, you’ll find Nossa, where you can pay for a day pass to enjoy the pool and restaurant. They’re related to Naked in Zipolite, which I mention in my Adventure guide for Mazunte and Zipolite.

From scrolling their Instagram, it looks pretty gorgeous.

Other fun stops to make:

There are a few stops mentioned along this stretch of the carretera in my Adventure Guide about El Puertecito. That post shares a bit of info about Plataforma, Ventanilla, and Tierra Blanca—which are all on the way to Agua Blanca!

Here are a few more stops to consider on this stretch of the Oaxacan coast.

Tomatal

Tomatal is the turning point for my longer bike rides down the coast. It’s a small town clustered around the highway with several small restaurants and tiendas, and it serves as the halfway point to Agua Blanca. There’s a rough road that heads to the ocean, which you can drive down if you want to get off the well-trodden trail and check out a wide-open beach.

Santa Elena

Santa Elena is really similar to Tomatal in terms of vibes. It’s a small town clustered around the highway, with one main road that shoots down toward an empty beach. That road is just a bit longer and a bit rougher than the one in Tomotal. Also, I’ve been told the population is slightly bigger in Santa Elena, but basically—they’re two interesting small rural towns to explore, and both are very useful for stocking up on supplies.

If this is where you end, thanks for reading! And if you decide to get the paid subscription to my Substack, thank you for supporting my work!

Subscribe now

Find more of my thoughts and words on my Medium

Read my 5-star Travel Memoir, Not That Anyone Asked

Insider info: Second entrance to Agua Blanca & my top two restaurant reccos

Read more

Preface: I’ve lived in Puerto Escondido for almost four years, and at this point have been to most of the small towns, beaches, and points of interest in the area. I used to help lead trips for the Hikers of Puerto group, led by my friend David (you can find them on Facebook), which certainly helped to that end.

Every month I’ll be sharing a weekend adventure idea here on my newsletter, in hopes that it inspires you and your loved ones to pack the car, jump on the moto, or flag down a colectivo with the goal of making new memories. Listo por una aventura amigos!?

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Inland to San Pedro Mixtepec & Cascada la Reforma

Full disclosure: It’s been well over a year since I’ve visited the massive waterfall just outside of Puerto Escondido.

During my first year living in Puerto, I helped out with weekly social hikes and the demand for waterfall trips was high. Folks who only had a few weeks in town were much more interested in getting an epic waterfall photo than walking a random windy road into the mountains.

Because of that demand, in 2021 I ended up at the waterfall six times. The drive, the hike, and the spray from the powerful falling water all grew familiar. It’s a very impressive waterfall and in the top ten of all the many waterfalls I’ve encountered in my decade-plus of travels.

However, it’s not very easy to get there, which is a part of why I haven’t felt a strong urge to return in over a year.

How to Get There:

La Reforma, the small town that is the jump-off for a short hike to the waterfall is about a 1.5-hour drive from Centro. The first half of the drive is fairly easy, but once you get to San Pedro Mixtepec and turn into the mountains, the road gets really rough.

I always did the drive in my faithful old truck, Fonzy. I wouldn’t recommend attempting the drive without a truck, SUV, or dirt bike. A small car or regular moto will certainly struggle over the last 45 minutes of the drive. Especially in the rainy season when the roads get washed out, so make sure you have a proper vehicle.

Lastly, you can drive all the way to the entrance of the waterfalls, leaving yourself just a short 10-minute hike to pools at the base of the falls. However, with the Hikers of Puerto crew, we always parked in La Reforma and turned the adventure into an hour-long hike. That’s an hour each way, to be clear.

By the time you arrive in the small barrio of Reforma, after bumping around in the truck for nearly an hour, it always felt great to just park the cars, grab a few snacks at the tienda, and start walking. It also felt great to jump into the freezing water after finally completing the hour-long romp through nature while the anticipation builds.

What to do

Once you pay the small entrance fee at the tiny entrance cabana (last I was there it was 20 pesos, so be sure to bring some smaller bills), you’ll have a short walk down some steps, over a stream, then up and around to the falls. You’ll hear the falling water once you get near the river crossing.

Your first view of the waterfall will make you want to finish the short hike by running the last few hundred meters. It’s stunning (see above).

Once you’re down near the bay, strip down to your swimmers and get as close to the falling water as your body and mind will let you. The water is cold, clear, and full of energy.

Bring a tapestry and some snacks so you can spend an hour or so taking dips in the freezing water and then drying back off in the sunshine. A little upstream from the swimming hole, there’s a rock you can jump off into a deeper section of the river. It’s hard to describe the exact location, so just hope there are some locals there playing who can show you the ropes.

Other fun stops to make

On the way out of Puerto, you’ll be leaving to the East through a neighborhood called Lomas de San Pedro. It’s one of the last neighborhoods before you reach the more windy mountain roads to San Pedro Mixtepec.

This might sound like a strange suggestion, but there’s a garden center and plant shop in that part of town that I love visiting. Vivero Leslie (now Corporativo Leslie on Google Maps) is a beautifully manicured museum of nature.

You can walk the rows and find a wide variety of the stunning flora that grows on the coast of Oaxaca. They also sell clay pots, furniture, and other beautiful homewares, like light fixtures made from coconut skin. Speaking of, you can even chill and drink a cold coconut or Coke after you peruse the plants.

Tambien, you can stop and wander the main streets of San Pedro Mixtepec. I’ve actually never done this (I’ve always been leading a scripted hike with a group on this mission) but I love checking out the smaller towns in Oaxaca. Go to the main park or Zocalo, get a meal, get a haircut, or get a cold beer. Looking at the layout on the small map below, I know I would love to wander this town for an hour.

(Let me know in the comments if you have!)

If this is where you end, thanks for reading! And if you decide to get the paid subscription to my Substack, thank you for supporting my work!

Read more

Preface: I’ve lived in Puerto Escondido for almost four years, and at this point have been to most of the small towns, beaches, and points of interest in the area. I used to help lead trips for the Hikers of Puerto group, led by my friend David (you can find them on Facebook), which certainly helped to that end.

Every month I’ll be sharing a weekend adventure idea here on my newsletter, in hopes that it inspires you and your loved ones to pack the car, jump on the moto, or flag down a colectivo with the goal of making new memories. Listo por una aventura amigos!?

East to Mazunte and Ziploite

Mazunte is a very interesting place. It’s a one-kilometer stretch of pristine beach, home to a small hippy community with a permanent population of between one and two thousand people (I’m basing this number off the official 702 collected in the 2005 census).

Although it’s a small community, Mazunte is very well known on the backpacker trail. Its incredible sunsets, beautiful beaches, delicious food, and myriad yoga classes have made it a place of interest. It’s certainly a relaxing and memorable place to spend a few days visiting.

For those who stay or live there long-term, many are amid a life pivot or on a healing journey. There’s likely a mind-altering drug or heart-opening wellness class with a related flier at the town’s one ATM, which might just be the right kind of salve to heal whatever ails you.

Although Mazunte is one of the most “woo-woo” places I’ve ever stumbled upon, somehow, just down the coast another 15 minutes, you’ll find a town where the dreadlocks are bigger, the faces are more tattooed, and where folks are just hanging out butt naked. (Side note: I find the term “butt naked” funny as fuck.) Zipolite is the only officially sanctioned nude beach in Oaxaca, and the liberated skin has definitely made an impact on who calls it home.

How to get to Mazunte & Zipolite:

It’s just over a one-hour drive from Puerto Escondido down the highway to Mazunte. There are a few small towns on the carretera where you’ll find several speed bumps, but outside of those minor inconveniences, it’s a very easy drive.

It’s such a nice road, half the time I decide to head to Mazunte for a night I ride my bike (see photo above). The ride takes me about four hours, maybe five if I stop for lunch and take my time on the journey. It’s 67 kilometers in total, so you can decide for yourself if that’s too long of a bike or moto ride.

Note: It is a VERY long ride on a scooter. I’m a pro-level scooter driver after 12+ years of traveling and living abroad, but this ride exhausts me. I prefer to take my truck or ride my bike. Both options are more enjoyable.

If you don’t have your own wheels, there’s a collectivo (shuttle bus) that leaves fairly often from the main intersection in centro near Chedraui. The driver basically waits until the van is full, and they seem to leave down the coast every hour or so. The van waits in front of Hotel San Juan. (Screenshot included in the Insider Info section below)

What to do:

Mazunte:

There’s only one thing you really should do in Mazunte, and that’s to catch the sunset at Punta Cometa. Once you do that, erase all ideas from your mind about “what you should do.” Letting slow lazy days pass in Mazunte without the pressure to tick a bunch of boxes is part of the charm.

Punta Cometa & Playa Mermejita

Punta Cometa is a short hike up and away from the main road (Rinconcito) of Mazunte. There are guards at the entrance, so don’t bring beers or dogs—two things I love—because they won’t be allowed in. Once past the gate, you’ll find incredible views along the path that leads to a gorgeous rock peninsula. There are paths in numerous directions, and you can’t really go wrong, just try to stake out your own spot.

It’s so beautiful, that on over half the times I’ve been there, I witnessed a marriage proposal. That’s how special of a place it is.

On a Friday afternoon in high season, there will certainly be crowds. If the park seems too packed (or if you have a dog with you), another great sunset option is to make your way to Playa Mermejita on the other side of the peninsula.

La Pizzeria

I don’t include too many food recommendations in these adventure guides (I have specific food recco posts you can check out if that’s your thing), but my favorite pizza place in the world is in Mazunte… so, I’ll give it a mention.

After the sun drops into the sea, head back down to the main road and go grab a pie at La Pizzeria. Their margarita is 100 pesos of perfection. I’m convinced that it’s the best 100 pesos you can spend in Mexico. The two sauces (spicy red and chimichurri) they provide for any style of pizza you order are so good. Sitting there at a picnic table waiting on a hot pie with a cold Victoria sweating onto my hand is a small version of heaven.

Once you’ve eaten the pizza and taken some photos at Punta Cometa, be sure to ask very little of yourself. Read a book, swing in a hammock, do some yoga, find some live music, wander the fruit market under the bridge, and check out the little tiendas selling local handicrafts. Enjoy the hippy soul of Mazunte and let time drift like smoke off the tip of an incense stick.

More specific Mazunte restaurant and bar recommendations in the “Insider Info” section below.

Zipolite:

GET NAKED! Seriously, get naked.

That is probably the number one thing to do in this small town full of hippies and nudists. The most noteworthy difference between Zipolite and Mazunte in terms of the crowds that gather, is that Zipolite is known for being a destination for the LGBTQ+ community.

Both towns have patchouli wafting in the air, but Zipolite might even be more free-spirited. Because of their proximity and similarities, Mazunte’s beach has a big “NOT NUDISM” sign. (The locals in Mazunte want it clear that the nude nonsense happens a bit down the coast.)

Wander the main street with a spattering of bars and restaurants and look for live music. If you don’t find a band playing, you’re almost certain to hear some live music anyway if you eat outside. There are a lot of buskers playing busted guitars and singing in the streets for pesos in Zipolite.

Naked Zipolite

Naked Zipolite is a nicer upscale place to check out if you have a bigger budget for the night, but if not—they also offer day passes. If you're looking for a hostel to call home,

Che Hostel

Che just opened what they’re calling The world’s first naked hostel. Hostel Che always has a fun party vibe for the backpacker crowd, which is ramped up more than usual in this small beach town where clothes are optional.

Other fun stops to make:

Hidraya Yoga

I’ve spent five or six different weekends in Mazunte at this point, but the most memorable was my three-day silent retreat at Hridaya Yoga. It’s a gorgeous facility up on the hill as you leave Mazunte, and from the prayer hall, you have a gorgeous view down the coastline and out to sea.

Hidraya’s 3- and 10-day silent retreats book up months in advance, so if you’re interested, plan ahead. (This is also the reason I ended up in a 3-day Spanish retreat, which I incorrectly assumed wasn’t a big deal because the retreat was going to be silent. There is a lot of instruction.)

The yoga center is incredibly well-respected and they offer a variety of programming, so check it out if you want to shut up and get introspective for a few days, or if you’re keen to explore some wellness opportunities that will likely push you out of your comfort zone. If you do book a retreat, definitely opt in for a meal package!

Read more about that experience here!

San Agustinillo

San Agustinillo is a less well-known little town on this beautiful strip of the Coast. It’s right in between Mazunte and Zipolite. Once you exit Mazunte to the East, you’re in San Agustinillo.

My main recommendation is just to park your car or moto, and explore the main street a bit. Pop into Agustivino, a lovely little wine shop with an incredible selection and kind owners. Also, go pull up a chair at La Mora Posada, and have a michelada while you dig your toes into the sand.

Read a bad romance novel on a beach blanket! Throw a frisbee with a stranger! Take stupid selfies! (See below) Roll in the break at the shoreline like a ten-year-old Mexican nino! Whatever you do, ask very little of yourself and just deeply enjoy these three small yet amazing coastal communities!

If this is where you end, thanks for reading! And if you decide to get the paid subscription to my Substack, thank you for supporting my work!

Subscribe now

Find more of my thoughts and words on my Medium

Read my 5-star Travel Memoir, Not That Anyone Asked

Read more

Preface: I’ve lived in Puerto Escondido for over three years, and at this point have been to most of the small towns, beaches, and points of interest in the area. I used to help lead trips for the Hikers of Puerto group, led by my friend David (you can find them on Facebook), which certainly helped to that end.

Every month I’ll be sharing a weekend adventure idea here on my newsletter, in hopes that it inspires you and your loved ones to pack the car, jump on the moto, or flag down a colectivo with the goal of making new memories.

Listo por una aventura amigos!?

North to Oaxaca City:

I love Oaxaca City. I was there two weeks ago. I was also there this past November for my older brother’s bachelor party during the Day of the Dead. It was a wild few days with 10 of my brother's closest friends and a lot of mezcal.

After the city, we took off for the coast. On the drive through the mountains down to Puerto Escondido, we hit over 100 speed bumps (aka topes). At some point, all the passengers started getting out of my brother’s Prius, while he slowly scraped over the top of each one. On the other side, the four of us would pile back into the clown car, and carry on another 50 meters until the next tope. It was funny the first five times … and then it wasn’t.

Now, you can fall asleep in a plush reclined bus seat for a few hours, and wake up in Oaxaca City. The new highway has dramatically changed how easily the capital of Oaxaca connects to the coastline of the state.

My chosen home, Puerto Escondido, feels like a relatively new place in the world, one that’s been developing especially quickly over the past five years. Oaxaca City certainly does not. It feels like it’s been there forever. The old stone walls and tree-lined streets are enchanting, but the charm doesn’t stop there.

How to get to Oaxaca City:

As mentioned above, the answer is quite easy now.

Take the brand new highway.

The first few years I lived in Puerto you had 3 terrible options:

1. Driving 8 to 10 hours through winding mountain roads.

2. Booking a colectivo van from centro. That ride took about 10 hours and was rather uncomfortable.

3. Taking a small single-prop puddle-jumper airplane. Aerotucan, which you’ve likely never heard of, flies a twelve-passenger plane a few days a week. It seems like an aviation company from a Wes Anderson film. There was also a private pilot’s WhatsApp number that would be passed around in various group chats. You could book his four-passenger plane directly through him.

Normal people with normal jobs were booking private planes to get from Puerto Escondido to Oaxaca City. That’s how rough the old road was.

Now, the highway takes around three hours and you can take an ADO bus from the terminal in centro for around $20 or 400 pesos one way.

Protip: I use Busbud for all bus bookings in and around Mexico. The app or website gives you every available option and has always worked perfectly for me.

What to do:

I’ve been to Oaxaca City six times now. It’s hard to separate the trips in my muddled memories. It’s also difficult to recall what happened on that first trip over five years ago.

I love that when I visit Oaxaca now, there’s nothing I should do. I’ve ticked every important box. Some boxes have been ticked three or four times. From these multiple visits, I do have a few stronger recommendations of things I think you really should do. In general, these suggestions below are about how I think you should approach your time in the city.

1. Eat everything. I’ll include a list of places you might want to try in the Insider Info section below, but honestly, the internet is already full of that. I will say, it’s one of the best food cities in the world, so you can’t really go wrong. Google some stuff and try a bunch of different things. Be sure to check off Oaxacan mole (try a few types), chocolate, cheese, and different varieties of artisanal mezcal. You’re doing great if you consume all of those things. La Cosecha (pictured above) is the one specific food rec I will share. It’s an open-air food court with big shared tables and a bunch of lovely affordable options.

   

2. Drink everything, especially mezcal. Oaxaca City is surrounded by mezcal farms, fábricas, and vendors. It’s probably the best place in the world to explore the magical clear liquid. Go for a tasting at Mezcaloteca if you want to really learn about the different mezcal varieties and production methods. They run a top-notch tasting operation that’s basically a one-hour graduate course in mezcal. Also, if you have time, visit one of the farms on the outskirts of the city. (More info below.)

3. Visit the markets! Oaxaca City is jammed full of markets. I could write an entire “market guide” if I wanted to focus only on this aspect of what the city has to offer. For this guide, I’ll just say, do a bit of research based on your specific interests, and go wander through a few of the markets. They’re all exploding with colors, smells, and lovely people selling their wares. Some of the major ones to check out include Mercado Benito Juarez, Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Oaxaca Artisan Market, Mercardo de la Merced, and el Mercado de Abastos.

4. Take in the street art. One of my favorite things to do in Oaxaca City is to simply wander. Every single street is interesting. Every single street has beautiful art.

5. Visit Arbol de Tule, the fattest tree in the world (photo above). It’s not the tallest, but it sure is the girthiest. It’s located about 9 kilometers to the east of the city center. When you arrive, you’ll find a whole small world built up around the tree. There are restaurants, beautifully manicured parks, and vendors of all types. According to Wikipedia, It is so large that it was originally thought to be multiple trees, but DNA tests have proven that it is only one tree… The age is unknown, with estimates ranging between 1,200 and 3,000 years. It’s a sight to behold, so definitely go check it out.

   Bike Recco: On my first visit to the tree I rode a bicycle that I borrowed from my hostel. If you want more of an adventure and a workout, I’d recommend that plan! There’s a very affordable bike rental shop in town as well, right next to La Cosecha.

Other fun stops to make:

If the new highway didn’t exist, there would be too much to say in this section. The old road that connects Oaxaca City to the coast is full of beautiful little mountain towns covered in Pine Trees. I’ll save San Jose Del Pacifico and San Mateo for future Adventure Guides. Both places are so charming they deserve their own write-ups.

As it is now, the highway takes you directly into Oaxaca City. It’s not that there aren’t any stops worth visiting on the new highway, it’s that there aren’t any stops. I don’t think there’s a noteworthy on- or off-ramp for the entire three-hour drive.

So, instead of sharing stops along the way, I’ll give you a fun mission just outside of the city. And you guessed it, it involves mezcal.

One of the more memorable events from my brother’s bachelor party was a tour and tasting at Fábrica de Mezcal Mal de Amor. It’s almost an hour east of the city center, but very much worth the effort. The tour is fascinating, and after learning about the farming, production, and distillation methods, you get to sample a wide variety of mezcal in a beautiful setting. I forget the exact cost of the tour and tasting, but I remember thinking it was a very fair price.

This mezcal fábrica (factory) outside of the city is the only one I’ve personally visited, but there are many other fábricas, tasting rooms, and ways to learn about the sacred liquid in this general direction from Oaxaca City.

Make a day of it, friends!

Pro tip: If you set off for this plan, it’s probably best to hire a driver for the day!

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Preface: I’ve lived in Puerto Escondido for over three years, and at this point have been to most of the small towns, beaches, and points of interest in the area. I used to help lead trips for the Hikers of Puerto group, led by my friend David (you can find them on Facebook), which certainly helped to that end.

Every month I’ll be sharing a weekend adventure idea here on my newsletter, in hopes that it inspires you and your loved ones to pack the car, jump on the moto, or flag down a collectivo with the goal of making new memories. Listo por una aventura amigos!?

Northwest to Chacahua

I love Chacahua. It’s an undeniably special place. Every time I visit Chacahua, my first thought after getting off the collectivo in the little town square is Why don’t I come here more often?

On average, I go about once a year. I’m not entirely sure why I don’t make it every two or three months, but certainly part of the reason is that it feels far. My truck is 25 years old and the drive is twice as long as getting to Mazunte. Whatever my excuses have been, I’m recommitting to making it to the magical lagoon of Chacahua more than once a year.

This past trip to Chacahua was one of my favorite visits yet, and I was only there for about 24 hours. I had the best surf session I’ve had in a year. I made some incredible new travel friends. The lone night I spent, I laughed for about five hours straight with those new friends. (See below, to get an idea of the laugh fest.)

Any one of those three things would have been worth the two-hour drive in my old truck.

Whatever your excuses might be, figure out a way around them, and get yourself to Chacahua; to meet its people, ride its waves, and catch its incredible vibe.

How to get to Chacahua:

It’s a bit of a mission, but that’s part of the fun.

Like I said up top, it’s not all that easy to get to Chacahua from Puerto Escondido. You can try to catch a series of collectivos heading that way, but from friends who have gone this route, you often spend a lot of time waiting for the right ones to get yourself all the way out there.

I’ve always taken my truck or moto. It’s a long way on a moto, so make sure you have a helmet and the stamina for it if you make that choice!

The drive is west past the airport, past Chila, past the lagoon, past Roca Blanca, past Rio Grande, and finally, you’ll arrive at the turn for the port town of El Zapotalito. El Zapotalito is a small community tucked up to the lagoon, where the boats all leave for Chacahua.

There are two types of boast you can take out to Chacahua. The collectivo boat, which drives you a short 10-minute ride across the water to a collectivo truck, which then takes you the last thirty minutes into town. (This route is depicted in the map at the very top of the guide).

You can also pay for a private boat, which should be around 300 pesos per person if you have at least four or six people in your group. If there are only two of you, they’ll likely ask for double or triple that to make it worth their time.

Note: I elaborate on the two boat options and give my preference in the “Insider Info” section at the bottom for paid subscribers. Thanks paid subscribers!

What to do:

If you ask this question to someone who has spent a few weeks or months in Chacahua, they might laugh.

Chacahua is the antithesis of “doing.” As my friend Tess put on one of her Surf Naked designs about Chacahua, “Endonde el tiempo no existe.” (See above)

The point of Chacahua is not “to do Chacahua” but rather to experience the mellow lifestyle and enjoy the beautiful nature. However, there are a few things you can consider doing to break up the lazy mornings and chill afternoons.

• You can take a kayak or paddleboard out in the lagoon for an hour.

• You can walk or run a lap around the place (choose a time when the sand won’t melt the skin off your feet).

• You can hike up to the lighthouse to watch the sunset. (More details in the insider info section.)

• You can take a bioluminescence tour at night to see the lagoon’s natural neon glitter.

• You can have a beer in the little town square while people watching and listening to the public loudspeaker announcements coming from the main tienda about the collectivo schedule, local kids’ birthdays, and all other essential neighborhood news. This loudspeaker system in the town square is one of my favorite ways to explain Chacahua.

• You can play volleyball in front of the stoner’s cafe at sunset.

Also, you certainly should lay around in a hammock reading a book or just relaxing for part of your time.

SURFS UP!

If you have any interest in surfing, you should make a point to spend as many hours as your body can handle on a surfboard in Chacahua. The break on the ocean side of the lagoon is perfect for beginners and incredible for experienced riders as well.

Beginners can find their own patch of ocean where a smaller section of the swell might break, meaning you can suck at surfing without any of the normal nervousness around “being in the way.” Last year, my brother surfed for the first time in his life in Chacachua and caught a bunch of small waves. He stood up a half dozen times and had the time of his friggin’ life with none of the usual stress that accompanies learning the sport.

If you’re a ripper, you can take a wave from the back of the lineup to shore, which lasts the rider around a full minute. I’m somewhere between those two levels. I don’t surf in Puerto too often, but in Chacahua I love catching pushy wave after pushy wave on a longboard. I normally count my caught waves while surfing (proof I’m not very good), but the surf in Chacahua is so good, that after the first five or so I lose track and I’m just out there until my shoulders give out and my neck cramps up.

Other fun stops to make:

Casa Wabi

Fun fact: The largest Palapa in Latin America is somewhere on the road between Puerto Escondido and Chacahua. That palapa is one of the key architectural features of Casa Wabi, a beautiful project described in their own words as a non-profit, civil association that fosters an exchange between contemporary art and local communities in three locations: Puerto Escondido, Mexico City, and Tokyo. Our mission is focused on forging social development through the arts… (Source)

It’s an incredibly fascinating and beautiful place, and if you can fit it into your schedule, I would recommend taking a tour of the estate. However, I’ve had a number of conversations over the past three years that have brought me the awareness that not everyone is a huge fan of Casa Wabi.

There’s even a spoof on the project called Casa Webo, started by a former resident. If you have a chance, make a visit, do some research, and form your own opinion of the project. A visit will certainly make a memory, and I’m in the memory-making business.

New Ruins

My friend Nico has an amazing off-grid project near Roca Blanca called New Ruins that welcomes guests overnight, serves as a retreat center, and also provides tours of his homestead. The best way to describe New Ruins, is basically that Nico bought an amazing piece of land right on the coast years back, and then had to figure out how to do everything on his own without the support of government infrastructure.

The bathroom, the wifi, the power, the water—everything anyone would need to live relatively comfortably, he had to sort it all out. I imagine there were a lot of YouTube videos watched in the process. Go stay a night at Nico’s place, or if your time is limited, see if he’s available for a tour by visiting their website or Instagram. It’s a beautiful and incredibly interesting place that will stick with you long after you leave.

Rio Grande & Roca Blanca

Two other stops you might consider making along the two-hour drive to Chacahua are Rio Grande and Roca Blanca. Rio Grande is a typical Oaxacan coastal community, where you can explore their small downtown and find a nice place for a quick cheap lunch. It’s a few kilometers inland from the sea, so not a beach stop.

If you want to find a beautiful secluded beach to escape the crowds and to catch some sun, then check out Roca Blanca. Drive towards Playa Roca Blanca or Playa del Amor on Google Maps, and you’ll be off the beaten path, a bit lost somewhere in paradise. Enjoy the endless palm trees and wide open beaches.

If this is where you end, thanks for reading! And if you decide to get the paid subscription to my Substack, thank you for supporting my work!

Find more of my thoughts and words on my Medium

Read my 5-star Travel Memoir, Not That Anyone Asked

Insider info: (Boat transfers and the lighthouse explained)

Read more

Preface: I’ve lived in Puerto Escondido for over three years, and at this point have been to most of the small towns, beaches, and points of interest in the area. I used to help lead trips for the Hikers of Puerto group, led by my friend David (you can find them on Facebook), which certainly helped to that end.

Every month I’ll be sharing a weekend adventure idea here on my newsletter, in hopes that it inspires you and your loved ones to pack the car, jump on the moto, or flag down a collectivo with the goal of making new memories. Listo por una aventura amigos!?

Southeast to El Puertecito and Tierra Blanca

El Puertecito is my favorite little beach town on the Oaxacan coast (read on for a surprise ending that will confirm this as truth). Generally, I visit El Puertecito twice a month—to climb on its rocks, splash in its ocean, collect its shells and driftwood, and feel a deep connection with nature.

On my first visit to El Puertecito toward the end of 2020, I vividly remember thinking on a loop Nature is in charge here. It’s rare to find a piece of this spinning space rock that doesn’t feel fucked up by humans. But in El Puertecito, nature rules. You see it in the pelicans hunting, the lizards crossing your path, and the huge flocks of birds cutting patterns in the sky at sunset.

Whenever I end up in El Puertecito, time slows down and the voice in my head (who is always pushing me to be productive) finds a hammock to chill in. If you want to tap into the universe’s stardust and find yourself on an epic uncrowded beach with a few locals shucking oysters and kids jumping off rocks—if you want to get a bit lost on the Oaxacan coast in a small fishing town—go visit El Puertecito.

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How to get to El Puertecito:

Load the car or hop on the moto, and make your way east about 30 minutes past La Barra towards Mazunte. You’ll pass Ventanilla, Tomotal, Rosedale, Plataforma, and Tierra Blanca, before finally ending up at the right turn into El Puertecito. More on a few of those stops later.

I always describe El Puertecito’s location by saying It’s halfway to Mazunte.

When you reach the turn, you’ll find a small settlement of houses, along with a few restaurants, and tiendas right at the turnoff. About three kilometers or six minutes down a dirt road you’ll find the rest of El Puertecito, the main part of the town, tucked up to the ocean.

That bumpy road that connects the two parts of El Puertecito is much improved from when I first drove it, and towards the end, you’ll enter an archway of young trees that leads you into the beautiful little town center. It’s going to keep getting more charming every year.

Note: You’ll find one restaurant and a small tienda right when you get to the main part of town. I generally stop at the first red tienda on the carretera to stock up on beers and snacks before making the last seven minutes of the beautiful drive toward the sea. That main tienda on the carratera is more consistently open and well stocked. The Google Maps screen shot above is the drive connecting the two tiendas mentioned.

What to do:

If I was ten, my answer would be “play pirates” or “build forts.” I suppose I do participate in some adult versions of those things—I collect unique driftwood and have been working on a pretty cool fort (foreshadowing).

What I normally do with a new group of friends joining me in El Puertecito is to take a little tour around town, about an hour before sunset. After slowly walking the dirt streets for 15 minutes, we’ll make our way down to the beach to climb the huge rocks and find a place to watch the sun fall into the ocean. We’ll sit barefoot as the sea mist and fading light paint the horizon. El Puertecito looks like it has a permanent filter.

There are two beaches in El Puertecito. Both are great for different reasons.

The main beach, the longest one, will make you whisper “epic” to yourself when you first arrive. It’s the best word to describe it. There are huge rocks to climb on, waves crashing against them, and usually large schools of pelicans and other ocean birds hunting in packs or painting the rocks white.

The other beach is better for snorkeling, spearfishing, or kayaking if you have one. It’s a smaller wine glass-shaped bay, which has a section in the middle that allows you to easily swim out at high tide. Immediately you’ll find tropical fish, and there’s a chance you could find rays, turtles, squid, and other life forms of the enormous Pacific Ocean.

Ultimately, my advice for “what to do in El Puertecito” is to not overthink it. Slow down, dig your toes into the sand, and take a long look at a colorful seashell. Find the gratitude and abundance of the universe.

Other fun stops to make:

The entire coastal highway that runs the length of Oaxaca is full of inroads that lead to magic beaches and perfect breaks. In this 30-minute drive from Puerto Escondido to El Puertecito, there are several stops worth checking out.

Here are my top 3.

Ventanilla is just past the intersection of the new major highway that connects Oaxaca City to the coast. When you get to this town, instead of turning right towards the ocean, you’ll turn left into the mountains. Feel free to get lost driving inland, but the reason I stop in Ventanilla is to play at their little water park. It’s got a few big pools, a few slides, and a snack bar. It’s the perfect (read: unpretentious) rural Oaxacan water park, and it only costs 50 pesos to enter. Especially If you have kids, go splash around in the little water park the next chance you get.

Plataforma is one of the most consistent surf breaks in the area. It’s a great wave, but since it’s a bit outside of town, it’s not usually very crowded. Stop in for a few waves, just be sure to check the forecast first. During a big swell day, the wave is rather intimidating. Also, there are no restaurants in Plataforma, but one very close that I love (which is shared below in Insider Info.)

Tierra Blanca Is another little pueblo magico that’s about the same size as El Puertecito. There are probably between 50-100 permanent residents who call it home, living a simple life; waking up in the morning to check the waves and water their gardens. There’s one restaurant and a new little tienda selling beers and basics. Go for a surf, or to wander a beautiful Oaxacan beach free from the Puerto crowds.

Surprise Ending:

If you’re a friend, you already know this. If you used your detective skills, then you might have already guessed it—but, in 2020, a group of 14 friends and I bought some land. We’re essentially making our own little fraccionamiento (suburb) on a 2000 square meter lot, about 50 meters from the concha (court) in the town center. If you do visit, and you notice a little fenced-in area with one building and a welcome palapa right when you get to the one cement road in town, that’s us!

Our little project, called El Campo 167, is largely made up of close friends and former coworkers who I used to work with at Remote Year, a travel company for digital nomads. We always said, “We should start a commune.” Now we have.

So far the common area has been built out (our fort!) with a kitchen, lounge, palapa, swimming pool, bathroom, outdoor shower, and gardens. We even put in two 8-meter tall palm trees that I sometimes forget weren’t always there. In the end, the idea is to have a circle of little cabanas or tiny houses surrounding the common area.

I’ve loved El Puertecito from my first trip there, and when we found this piece of land for sale (and on sale) it felt like an easy decision to try and make it happen. Luckily, my friends are dreamers and travelers as well.

It’s an incredibly charming town, and I’m so curious to see how it’s going to grow and evolve in the next few decades. We hope to be a positive part of that growth and the community of El Puertecito.

If this is where you end, thanks for reading! And if you decide to get the paid subscription to my Substack, thank you for supporting my work!

Find more of my thoughts and words on my Medium

Read my 5-star Travel Memoir, Not That Anyone Asked

Insider info: (See photo clue below)

Read more

Preface: I’ve lived in Puerto Escondido for over three years, and at this point have been to most of the small towns, beaches, and points of interest in the area. I used to help lead trips for the Hikers of Puerto group, led by my friend David (you can find them on Facebook), which certainly helped to that end.

Every month I’ll be sharing a weekend adventure idea here on my newsletter, in hopes that it inspires you and your loved ones to pack the car, jump on the moto, or flag down a collectivo with the goal of making new memories. Listo por una aventura amigos!?

West to Puerto Suelo

Puerto Suelo has been one of my favorite hidden beaches for a few years. I recently returned with my new partner Michelle, her 6-year-old son Matias, and my little black dog Rue. We had an amazing afternoon surrounded by nature and secluded from the January crowds.

Puerto Suelo is a small farming community. Not many people live there full-time (Google doesn’t even have population info). Some of the folks who call Puerto Suelo home—like my mate Julio who’s taking us across the river in the photo above—rely on the minimal tourism that the beach draws. Julio and his family run a little beach bar where they sell cold cocos, cervezas, and a few simple food items. This time upon arriving he let us know immediately that there was no food (besides the meat of the cocos).

Every time I’ve been to Puerto Suelo, it’s felt like we had the entire beach to ourselves. This last time with Michelle, Mati, and Rue, we saw folks leaving on horses when we first arrived, and for the next two hours, it was just us, Julio, his wife, and his son. Also, January is meant to be the heart of the “high season” for tourism on the Oaxacan coast, so basically—Puerto Suelo is still very much an undiscovered playa magico! Go check it out for an afternoon if you want a gorgeous beach to yourselves.

How to get to Puerto Suelo:

Load the car or hop on the moto, and make your way West about 30 minutes past the airport. You’ll pass Bajos de Chile and the entirety of Laguna de Manialtepec before reaching the turn for Puerto Suelo. There’s a small green government sign before the turn, but it’s very easy to miss!

Once you turn onto the dirt road, it’s about an 8-minute drive to the little river that cuts the beach off from the access road. At this point, you’ll need to flag someone down to paddle you over. It’s around 50 pesos per crossing (it used to be 10 pesos per person, but on this most recent visit we paid 100 total for our group to be brought both ways).

The boat ride only covers about 30 meters, but loading up the team onto an old canoe is definitely a part of the Puerto Suelo adventure. Getting to the secluded beach via water passage makes for a great start to a Saturday afternoon.

The little stretch of river you’ll cross is the main connection between the open ocean and Laguna Manialtepec. It’s a gorgeous and very alive bit of nature. There are birds everywhere, and even the occasional crocodile, so be very careful if you bring the dog(s)!

What to do:

After arriving on the beach, you’ll find cold cocos, cold cervezas, and an empty beach for as far as the eye can see. When arriving on the other side of the water passage, I recommend going to the left, to the last little shelter (enramada) in Puerto Suelo. This is the one that Julio’s family runs. They’re lovely hosts, and it’s the one little beach bar that’s most consistently open.

On all five of my visits to Puerto Suelo, I’ve posted up under their shade and enjoyed a cold beer or coconut. Sometimes they’re able to do food as well, but don’t count on it. If you plan on spending the majority of your day at the beach, pack a lunch!

You can swim and play in the ocean. You can also jump into the river. For families with younger kids, the river might be the safer and more calm option. Do be aware—there are occasional crocodiles—so especially if you have smaller dogs, keep them on a leash near the river.

I always ask Julio or any locals around, if there have been any sightings lately as well, to help calm whatever croc-nerves there might be in the group.

Other fun stops to make:

When you drive west past the airport, there are a few other fun and interesting stops you can include in the day. My favorite of the many stops you can make to add to the adventure, are the several big viveros (plant shops) out near Bajos de Chila. My favorite is called Viveros El Tequio and it’s located right at the first entrance to Chila.

It goes on in every direction further than you can see, and it’s lined with every amazing plant, palm, and flower that grows in Oaxaca. It’s a paradise for folks who love gardening or nature. You’ll almost certainly leave with a new plant baby. There are several others on that stretch of carretera that are amazing as well, so if you’re outfitting a property with a bunch of plants, check the prices at several!

I want to add something to each of these adventure guides specifically for those folks who were nice enough to support my writing with a paid subscription. So, below the paywall is a bit of “insider info.” In other words, it’s a recommendation that I keep close to the chest.

If this is where you end, thanks for reading! And if you decide to get the yearly subscription to my Substack, thank you for supporting my work!

Insider info: (See photo clue below)

Subscribe now

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